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Butterfly Garden

PERENNIALS & SHRUBS
THAT ATTRACT BUTTERFLIES
Your butterfly garden should be planted in the sunniest location in your garden. Butterflies need the warmth of the sun to raise their body temperatures. Be sure to include purple, pink, yellow, and white flowers in the garden as these colors attract butterflies. Supply food (host) plants for the caterpillars to munch, as well as nectar plants for the butterflies. A small saucer of water is beneficial also for butterfly puddling.

Absolutely NO PESTICIDES should be used in a butterfly garden.

 

Perennials  (H)=Host Plant

Achillea   -Yarrow

Alcea(H)  -Hollyhock

Aquilegia(H)  -Columbine

Asclepias(H)   -Butterfly Weed

Aster(H)

Baptisia(H)   – False Indigo

Chelone(H)   – Turtlehead

Echinacea -Cone Flower

Echinops -Globe Thistle

Eupatorium(H)  -Joe Pye Weed

Gaillardia  -Blanket Flower    

Heliopsis(H)  -Sunflower

Iberis  -Candy Tuft

Lavender

Leucanthemum     -Shasta Daisy

Liatris  -Gay Feather        

Lilies                             

Lupine(H)

Monarda   -Bee Balm

Nepeta  -Catmint

Peony

Tall Phlox

 

 
Trees and Shrubs (H)=Host Plant

Alder Tree(H)

All Fruit Trees(H)                  

All Fruiting Shrubs(H)

Azalea

Birch Tree

Butterfly Bush

Clethra

Dogwood(H)

Lilac(H)

Maple Tree

Mockorange

Oak Tree

Potentilla

Pussywillow

Redbud Tree

Serviceberry(H)

Spirea

Viburnum(H)

Weigela

Willow(H)

 

Container Citrus

 
GROWING CITRUS
          Citrus are amazing plants with some of the most fragrant flowers and fruit found in nature.  The citrus has a rich history and can be traced back over 4000 years to Southeast Asia.  Once thought to remedy poison, the citrus is now a major economic crop producing over 105 million tons of fruit annually worldwide.  Many dwarf varieties of this subtropical plant can be successfully grown in a container with just a few key requirements.

LIGHT:  Full Sun!  Citrus need a lot of light in order to produce flowers and fruit.  For this reason it is recommended to bring your citrus outside during the summer months.  Make sure to wait until the weather has warmed and all danger of frost has passed.  Slowly transition your citrus from indoors to part sun to full sun to prevent leaf scorch.  This acclimation should take a couple weeks.  If you are unable to bring your citrus outside you may need to supplement the natural light with artificial light.  Citrus require at least 6 hours of direct sun to produce flowers and fruit.

FERTILIZER:  NEPTUNES FISH & SEAWEED is a great all purpose organic fertilizer which will provide the micronutrients that synthetic fertilizers lack.  Citrus need iron to keep their leaves green.  Citrus also require a slightly acidic pH.  You can use Miracid or Aluminum Sulfate alternatively to supplement your organic fertilization.  Fertilize spring through summer on a regular basis.  Give your plant a rest during the winter months.

WATER:  Citrus are drought tolerant, especially during the winter months.  Although you do not want to let your plant completely dry out, over-watering is sure death.  You will need to water less often during the winter months when growth is […]

Decorating with a living Christmas Tree

LIVING CHRISTMAS TREE
Family traditions are a big part of the holiday season.  Many families have created landscapes that are planted with evergreens from Christmas past.  Properly planned, a live tree can be decorated, enjoyed and eventually planted.

Timing is important.  You need to prepare the planting site while the ground is still workable.  In our area the ground will not freeze until late November.  Choose a spot that will provide the tree with full sun and well-drained soil. Be sure to dig to the same depth but 4-6” wider than the width of the tree to allow for root growth.  You might want to store your backfill in a wheelbarrow that is sheltered in the garage until you need it.  This will insure that the soil is workable.

It is also important to choose a variety of tree that will thrive in your area, keep in mind the mature size of the tree.  It shouldn’t be brought directly from the cold outdoors into your home, and needs to be gradually introduced to the new environment. The tree should be stored in a sheltered, cool area that is away from wind and sun, but never exposed to freezing temperatures, such as an unheated room or in a garage.

It is a good idea to spray the tree with an anti-desiccant or anti-wilt product. We carry WILTPRUF.  This will ensure that the tree holds as many of its needles as possible and help retain moisture.

The tree will need plenty of water. The root ball should always be moist, but never wet.  If the tree is balled and burlapped, the tree should be situated in a container in an upright position, you may need to enforce with rocks or bricks.  […]

Dividing and Transplanting Perennials in the Fall

 

DIVIDING & TRANSPLANTING PERENNIALS IN THE FALL

It is time to divide a perennial plant when the center of the plant begins to look dead with no growth.  The blooms may also decline in the plant, not blooming as vigorously or with smaller flowers.  These are signs that the plant is ready to be revived by division.  Sometimes people divide for other reasons; the plant may need more room to grow or you may want to share some with a friend.  You may not want to divide your plant but simply relocate it to a new spot in the garden for aesthetics or because it needs a different location to thrive.  Whatever the reason, timing is an important consideration for a successful division and transplant.

The general rule of thumb is that spring and early summer blooming perennials should be divided & transplanted in the fall and late summer and fall bloomers in the spring.  In southern NH, October is the ideal time of year for fall division or transplanting.  The weather is cool and moist, but the soil is warm and will encourage root development.  You will want to give the plant a good six weeks to grow before the first hard frost which typically comes after Thanksgiving.  If working in the spring generally you want to divide just as the plants are emerging from their winter dormancy.  There are always exceptions to the rule and some plants just do not like to be transplanted at all, such as Oriental Poppies or Russian Sage which have long taproots.  If you are not familiar with the plant in question do your research first or ask one of the friendly employees in the perennial section at Wentworth […]